For a long time Li-ion battery discharge current capabilities where unsuitable for high current applications like drones. However Li-ion chemistry advanced enough where they become viable for certain types of flying.

This week I’ve been preparing my tiny whoop fleet for the winter season. I currently have 4 tiny whoops built up but over the years I went through much more. I’ve tried various different frames and I thought it would be useful to share my experience as well as collect some basic information in one place.

The FPV season is over and I’m starting a new build for the winter. I discovered that I enjoy pushing the limits of my quadcopter range more than doing any kind of tricks so I decided to build a quad dedicated to long range flying.

Flsun recently released a new delta printer called V400, and it got me interested. Flsun claims it can print at speeds of 400mm/s in the stock configuration. It took me a lot of tuning to reach that speed on my Voron 2.4, and I know it’s a pretty high target. I decided to order one and I’m going to share my reasons (full review will come when I receive the printer).

Recently, it has become a lot easier to run your Voron on 48V: the latest controller boards support voltages up to 60V and high voltage stepper drivers like TMC5160 are readily available. Does it mean the future of 3D printing is in 48V systems? Should you use 48V in your next build? I will push my 24V printer to find its limit and then test how much faster it can go on 48V.

If you want to use Klipper firmware on your 3D printer, you typically add a single board computer (SBC) like Raspberry Pi. Raspberry Pi is great, and it used to be affordable, but nowadays, due to chip shortage and supply chain issues, its price has skyrocketed, and even if you’re willing to pay it, they are out of stock most of the time. I got my hands on an alternative board called Orange Pi Zero 2, and I’m going to test how it compares to Raspberry Pi Zero 2 and Raspberry Pi 4.

Rapido is one of the best high flow hot-ends, but it comes with a premium price tag. Trianglelab recently announced CHC series hot-ends that feature a similar ceramic heater (and similar performance?) at 1/3 of the price. I will compare both hot-ends and tell you how they stack up.

When it comes to 3D printers, there are three firmware options you can run: Klipper, Marlin, or RepRap firmware. Most printers are shipped with a customized version of Marlin configured for the specific hardware and manufacturer’s branding. If you decide to modify the printer, you will likely have to flash the firmware. Let’s look at their differences and why I prefer Klipper over the others.

Voron 2.4 and Voron Trident are advanced 3D printers running more stepper motors than a basic 3D printer. You used to need two controller boards to run these printers, but recently multiple affordable 8 stepper boards were released. I tested and compared BIGTREETECH Octopus, Manta M8P, FYSETC Spider, Makerbase MKS Monster 8 and Mellow Super 8.

I was looking to build a smaller printer, and I liked Tiny-M’s overall size and design, but I also had some ideas for improvements. I wanted it to be more space-efficient, and I started tinkering in the CAD. When PrusaXL was revealed, I thought the open front was very practical and decided to use the same approach in my design. That’s how the concept of TinyXL was born: based on Tiny-M and inspired by PrusaXL.